For my first drape I decided to explore using pleats as a feature of the garment, to reflect the lines associated with the scallop shell as a fabric manipulation. Using pleats may prove to be difficult as it would be tricky to add embroidery over the pleats, without taking away from the embroidery design or the pleating. I then explored only using pleats in some areas of the drape to create an asymmetrical look. This will enable the embroidery to be placed on the non-pleated area so as to not detract from the design, however I will explore layering the embroidery over the pleating and see how this comes up.
I decided to use inverted box pleat as the base of the pleats create almost exactly the same shape as the edge of a scallop shell, highlighting the shell inspiration. I chose to place the embroidery opposite the pleats in just a quick pin up to gage what it may look like, to not hide the pleats and ensure the actual embroidery is not hindered by the pleats.
I then re-draped using knife pleats as I felt the inverted box pleats did not capture the design I envisioned nor did they show the lines as I wanted. Having pinned my second traditional embroidery onto the mannequin I am pleased with how the embroidery works with the pleats, the swirl/ circular motion of this embroidery directly contrasts the lines of the pleats, giving another dimension to my shell inspiration. I will put this drape, once sewn, into photoshop and play with scale and my other embroideries to see how it will evolve into a garment.